Day 7 - Keld to Reeth

And now we are 10!  Joined today by Jan and Ian, and sister-in-law Carol and nephew Steve.  Carol and Steve left home in Surrey at 4am to meet us after Steve got to bed at 2.30 following a beer festival... impressive!  

Very rainy today for our 12 mile walk through Swaledale.  Detoured to Muker for a very early pub and gallery stop, then lunched at Si-Fi's place in Gunnerside where Ali and Fi had organised a fab lunch for us all.  Fi, Ali and Ali's Simon opted not to walk after lunch - and who could blame them because we'd barely dried out from the morning's walk and it was still chucking down and very windy!  

However the 7 of us plodded on regardless with a spring in our step until at about 5 o'clock we arrived cold and dripping in Reeth.  Here we said goodbye to Jan and Ian - thanks for joining us guys, it was great to see you again.  Simon also disappeared back to Gunnerside for the night.  Have wrung out my socks and emptied the water from my boots and feeling a bit warmer now!

Of to pub soon in Grinton for well earned ale and supper with Carol and Steve.  Hope they've got a roaring fire!

Distance 12.32 miles (including detour to Muker).  Elapsed time 7 hours including detour and very long lunch at Devon Cottage!  

Question for the day: Is it ever dry and warm in Yorkshire??

Day 6 - Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Now we are 6 - first guest appearances as we're joined by Fi's sister Ali and her own Simon for today's leg. 


Distance: a measly 12 miles 

Elapsed time: 6 1/2 hours 

Calories: 1,003 

Much colder than yesterday - down to about 4 degrees. And windy, as we find out on the 4-5 mile upward climb to the Nine Standards, an interesting collection of stone formations high on a Pennine ridge. We persuade a reluctant Fi and Ali to go the high route to the Standards, and then it's a fun couple of hours bog-hopping on top of the very bleak moor.

Lunch is in the shelter of an old stone sheep fold, before heading down the Whitsundale valley. This is wild and remote country, but starkly beautiful. 


Disappointment of the day - getting to Ravenseat Farm that offers tea & scones, only to see a blackboard saying " closed - lambing season". And then we pop over the top of the moor and we're at the end of the delightful Swaledale, strolling along the road into Keld. 

A warm welcome at Butt House from Tony & Linda, followed by a wonderful meal with our friends Ian & Jan, who we met in Sicily a couple of years ago. 

Thought for the day: It's better to travel hopefully than to arrive.

Day 5 - Shap to Kirkby Stephen

From the base of the Lakes to the edge of the Pennines. 

Distance: 20 miles 

Elapsed time: 8 1/2 hours 

Calories: 1,650 

Magnificent walk in unexpectedly glorious weather. From the ancient walled village of Oddendale, to desolate Ravonstonedale Moor, and Smardale Bridge and Fell, today's leg is a constant delight. Fiona Lightweight Ware bails out near Orton, seduced by the attractions of the chocolate factory and a lift from her sister Ali. 

The whole walk is remote, rural and timeless England in all its glory. Highlight of the day: Smardale - a disused railway and viaduct, a beautiful stone bridge and a plunging valley down to the beck. As we crest the top of Smardale Fell, the 9 Standards on the Pennines and then Kirkby Stephen, hove into view. Gill and I devour tea and Victoria sponge back at the B&B, while Simon heads to Gunnerside. 

Excellent curry in Kirkby Stephen...normal bodily functions almost resumed. 

Roll call - Fi made a remarkable recovery after deciding to bail out; Simon's knees held out, thanks to Ibuprofen and Gill's hip flask; I've picked up some worrying blisters, probably caused by still damp boots and different socks; Gill hit the wall a bit back at the B&B, possibly from too much sun (incredible, I know) Thought for the day: I came to a fork in the road, and took the road less travelled (Robert Frost)

Day 4....and we thought day 3 was tough

And this is a holiday?

Day 4 - Patterdale to Shap

Distance - 17 miles
Elapsed time - 8 1/4 hours
Andy's calorie consumption - 1,487

Tough and already very soggy climb from Patterdale up to Angle Tarn. Stunning views back across to Helvellyn & St Sunday crag...apparently.

Relentless onward climb up to Kidsty Pike, just under 800 metres, in unremitting rain and increasing wind towards the peak. The paths are waterfalls.

Visibility finally improves as we drop down over Kidsty Pike towards the vast reservoir of Hawes Water. Long slog along its western shore before leaving the Lakes.

We rumbled into Shap to find the Greyhound Inn was at the furthest point...cruel, but got us past the 17 mile mark.

Roll call - Fiona didn't make supper and has a fever; Simon's knees are shouting for him to stop; Gill has rucksackitis shoulder; Andy has Immodium Binding, the symptoms for which are a painful cramping of the bottom and tummy, and an inability to eat or drink anything substantial.

Still...just the 20 miles tomorrow.

Day 3 - nobody said it would be easy.....

16ish brutal Lakeland miles from Seatoller, hard climb up the beautiful Langstrath valley past Eagle Crag to Greenup Edge. Over to Grasmere, and - in deteriorating weather - another upward haul to Grisedale Tarn and then a long drop into Patterdale, between high peaks of Helvellyn and St Sunday Crag. Total elapsed time just shy of 9 hours. Calorie consumption - unknown, Andy's gizmo ran out of juice...just like him. Tummy bug continuing to take its toll. Highlight of the day - Simon's surprise birthday cake in the warmth and dry of a hostel in Grasmere. Thought for the day - one should always have a definite objective in a walk, as in life - Wainwright

Day 2 - Ennerdale to Seatoller

Day 2 - Low Cock How Farm to Seatoller. 15.4 miles Approx. 6 1/2 hours walking Andy burnt 1,400 calories...and then spent the next 8 hours on the toilet, suffering badly from food-poisoning or a tummy bug. What doesn't kill you... Stunning walk - the length of Ennerdale Water, lunch in the famous Black Sail Hut, up the end of the valley via Loft Beck and over into Honister Pass for Borrowdale.

Day 2

End of day 2, 29 miles covered, and still dry apart from regular sips from A & G's hip flasks. Fi not feeling good today, but made a sterling effort. My knee my only problem, but managing thanks to Lesley's advice. Poor old Andy having a rotten time with his stomach, but still first up all the hills. Gill un phased, ok boot camp does work. I loved having lunch today at Black Sail YH, full of history and inspiration to keep walking.

Are we lucky or what?

Sorry if I'm repeating anything that Simon may be writing but I'm just glad to finally have access to the internet! We have been so lucky so far - a small rain shower today while we were inside Black Sail Hut, somewhere in the Ennerdale Valley, eating our packed lunches. Otherwise no rain...! Possibly not so lucky tomorrow. Also lucked out again with the accommodation and food - fabulous 3 course meal tonight.

A message for commenters

A message from our Blogger Boss, Gillian...we have been temporarily defeated by technology, and she has been unable to access her moderator status. So thanks to anyone who has left a comment so far....she'll hopefully be able to upload them to the live blog soon, so that your words of support - and abuse - are visible to the online world.

Day 1 St Bees to Ennerdale. Well, almost....

Day 1 done and dusted. 13.5 varied and almost entirely sunny miles from St Bees on the Oirish sea to Low Cock How Farm near Ennerdale, gateway to the Lake District. 

Just under 6 hours of gentle strolling up the coast, through farmland and forest and into the fells. 

1164 calories expended, but I was suffering from a dodgy belly all day...possibly from Whitby Bay fish. 

Highlight of the day - Saint Marjorie's pop-in/up walkers' cafe in Moor Row. Energy-restoring lentil soup, served with a smile and with all profits going to benefit the ailing community. 

Thought for the day - are we lucky, or what? Settling into our very own farmhouse, refuelled with choc bars, tea and the promise of a Chinese takeaway. Life is good.

We're leaving now and we may be gone some time....

That's it then.

Final preparation done....physio MOT (thanks, Lesley), go-faster haircut, raided the bank account, bought drugs & smellies.

Just need to pack. Need to squeeze everything into 1 bag between us, max 20 kg. Might need to lose the 5 kg of chocolate....

Driving oop north tomorrow, start the walk in St Bees on the west coast on Monday morning. Weather forecast - arctic- and monsoon-like. Still, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, as they say.

Not great preparation for Gill. A few days ago her neck went into extreme muscle spasm, probably from something we did at that unhealthy bootcamp place. She was immobile and in complete agony, to the extent that she could barely eat. Thanks (again) to physio from Lesley, elephant-like painkillers, warming scarves and hot water bottles and osteopath treatment, she can hopefully get to the start line...which was looking unlikely midweek.

Simon & Fiona are heading north today, and seem in far ruder health than us. Planning to meet them again in Kirkby Stephen bright and early on Monday morning, for the Packhorse bus to St Bees.

Watch this space to see our C2C adventure unfold.....

One week to go

I have wanted to walk the C2C for over 20 years and it's now or probably never. The only fly in the ointment is a troublesome knee. I am hoping that by following the advice of my physio Lesley and liberal doses of PMA (positive mental attitude) encouraged by Andy and Gill that I'll make it. We managed 15 Surrey miles recently, but Lake District miles are much longer, maybe hard drugs are what is needed! Looking forward to getting started, but currently stuck in a dark studio a long way from Wainwright's path. Sent from my iPhone

Canine companion

and here are Gill, Simon & Fi - with a guest appearance from Tigger Treasure - on the Easter weekend 15 mile training walk...somewhere around Thursley or Hankley commons:  

Tigger was a very welcome companion...but if he comes on the C2C walk and Fi is still trying to get him to heel, I'll have to book another month off work.

Can we go now please?

2 weeks from now we will have completed our first day on the Coast to Coast walk.  I wonder how we will be feeling... 14.25 miles under our belts and only another 186 or so to go.  Hopefully we will be tucked up in comfortable beds having feasted on a hearty walker's supper, washed down with a glass of local ale.
I just want to get going now - having completed another 15 mile training walk yesterday I'm ready to go.  The boots are well and truly worn in, equipment is sorted, logistics are sorted.  Just need to organise the weather...!